Provincetown, Cape Cod, Off Season Restaurant & Bar Guide

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The thing about Provincetown in the cold months is that a lot is remarkably ‘active’, even out of season, with themed weekends and events stretching into winter. Instead of the summer crowds, you’ll find sleepy streets and quiet beaches that exude an almost bewitching beauty. Indeed, the off-season of the city was the scene of the first half of the 10th season of american horror story, although to date there have been no sightings of real vampires in town. What you should eat, however, are the dishes offered by the stellar restaurants that stay open all winter.

Plus, if you’re in the mood for retail therapy, there are plenty of local stores that offer big off-season discounts. This is the perfect time of year to book a weekend in a B&B – preferably one with fireplaces like Eben House – and check off as many places as possible on this dining route.


Breakfast and brunch

First of all, you need fuel. While Kōhi Coffee Company has established itself in Boston, its roots go back to a seaside shack-like location on Commercial Street, where you can savor seasonal lattes and a bit of New Orleans with a latte or city-inspired cold brew Lightly sweet sips with a hint of chicory. There is a second Kōhi take-out location on the other side of town at spindle, so as you walk around and get to the bottom of your first coffee, you can order another one. And along the way, if you’re here on the weekends, be sure to head to the legendary Provincetown Portuguese Bakery for a malasada – delicious fried dough mixed with sugar – and buns stuffed with chouriço sausage.

For the sit-down breakfast, the Café de la Poste and Cabaret features generous classic platters, stacks of fruit pancakes and an extensive Egg Benedict menu, featuring Lobster Benedict featured. Liz’s Café, Bar for everyone lures with salted egg plates served in its cottage-chic space, with the fins (fried dough topped with Vermont maple syrup, soft butter, and a dusting of powdered sugar) a sweet star.


Breakfast

Don’t be surprised if you head to Provincetown Brewing Company for a quick bite and end up staying for hours. The vibe of the gay-owned and operated place is welcoming and funky – just take a peek at the Dolly Parton pinball machine – with platters, sandwiches and more to share with the craft beers. Be sure to try the artichoke cakes, homemade chicken pie and snapper served with sweet Jamaican dumplings. Then take off with a flight of beer, making sure to include the refreshing Golden Hook Ale and the Asphalt Glitter Light Stout. The latter offers coffee from Three-fin roasters in West Dennis and edible glitter that swirls hypnotically in the glass.

Pans aisle serves New American cuisine alongside some of the city’s best watchers. Grab a table by the restaurant’s large windows that overlook Commercial Street and enjoy a delicious chicken katsu sandwich or the classic fish and chips. Or if a quick bite is more your style so you can keep walking around town, knock on Rosie’s canteen for a huge and flavorful burrito.


Having dinner

After dropping anchor at Harbor fair to drink at sunset on the water (plus one of his famous espresso martinis), head to the the cafeteria. The six weekends after Thanksgiving see the favorite seaside resort transform into a holiday market and winter lodge. Stop by the food hut on the spacious back patio to warm up with grilled sausages, raclette, and fluffy pretzels, which you can drizzle with hot apple cider, hot chocolate and eggnog. Savor the goodies in the fireplaces, then wander the stalls where local vendors sell everything from jewelry to kitschy crowns. Meanwhile, the forward dining area, heated outer tent, and storage space transformed into a cozy bar serve the usual canteen menu (the crispy Brussels sprouts mixed with fish oil might be worth the trip. in town alone) as well as comfort foods like schnitzel and currywurst. Apple cider whoopies, homemade fruit pies and coconut-passion snowballs add sweetness.

The food hut offerings at last year’s holiday market in the canteen.
The cafeteria

If you hope to have a quiet evening, Jimmy’s refuge offers American cuisine with a European touch in its cozy and welcoming underground dining room and bar. Favorite entrees include the Provincetown Fisherman’s Stew (with a kick, thanks to Portuguese piri piri sauce) and the grilled tenderloin with dreamy whipped potatoes.


Dessert

There is something to be said for the uncluttered perfection of ScottCakes. La petite p̢tisserie offers only yellow cupcakes topped with a fluffy pink buttercream frosting in regular or mini sizes. Bright beauties are created every day and are all you need to satisfy those cravings. And for a sweet treat for later Рif you have the mastery of yourself to stay away from the ice cream counter, that is Рgo to Provincetown Fudge Plant for blocks of fudge, homemade peanut butter cups and truffles almost too good to eat.


Late at night

No trip to Provincetown is complete without hitting Spirit Pizza for a slice. The colder months mean there are no swarms of hungry revelers heading to the family restaurant after the bars close. It is open until 11 p.m. on weekends; go for a few slices, especially the Greek white pizza with feta, black olives, onions and spinach. One slice costs $ 4 – be sure to go to the ATM first, as Spiritus is cash only.


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